Mexico City

Overview

Mexico City — CDMX to locals — is one of those places that rewrites your brain. It’s 22 million people stacked on a drained lakebed at 7,350 feet, and it’s somehow one of the most livable, walkable, culturally rich cities on earth. The food scene is globally elite. You can eat at one of the world’s best restaurants at lunch and then have an even better meal at a street cart for 40 pesos that night.

The city sprawls endlessly, but the neighborhoods visitors care about are compact and distinct. Roma Norte feels like Mexico City’s Brooklyn — tree-lined streets, coffee shops, mezcalerías. Condesa is its leafier, art-deco cousin. Centro Histórico is the ancient, overwhelming heart. Coyoacán is the village-within-the-city where Frida lived and where families still spend Sunday afternoons. You could spend a month here and barely scratch it.

What surprises most first-timers: the politeness, the greenery, the sheer density of museums and galleries and public art, and — yes — the altitude. You’ll feel it the first day or two. Drink water, go easy on the mezcal (at first), and let the city pull you in.

Top 10 Things to Do

1. Museo Nacional de Antropología — One of the greatest museums on earth, full stop. The Aztec Sun Stone alone is worth the trip. Budget 3-4 hours. ¥95 MXN (~$5 USD).
2. Walk Roma Norte & Condesa — No agenda needed. Just walk Álvaro Obregón, Orizaba, Amsterdam (the oval street with the park in the middle). Stop for coffee, tacos, mezcal. This is the vibe.
3. Palacio de Bellas Artes — Stunning art-deco/art-nouveau building with Diego Rivera and Siqueiros murals inside. The building itself is the art.
4. Eat your way through Centro Histórico — From the Zócalo outward. Tacos at Los Cocuyos (suadero and cabeza, open late), churros at El Moro, tortas at La Casa de Toño.
5. Museo Frida Kahlo (Casa Azul) — Book tickets weeks in advance. It’s small but deeply moving. Combine with a wander around Coyoacán’s plazas and markets.
6. Xochimilco trajineras — Floating gardens on colorful boats. Go on a weekday to avoid crowds. Bring your own beer and snacks, or buy from passing canoe vendors. Hire a boat for ~500-800 MXN/hr.
7. Chapultepec Castle — A literal castle on a hill in the middle of a massive urban park. The views over the city are unreal. 95 MXN entry.
8. Lucha Libre at Arena México — Friday nights are the main event. Tickets start around 100-300 MXN. Pure theater. Get a mask from a vendor outside.
9. Teotihuacán pyramids — Go early (gates open at 8am). Climb the Pyramid of the Sun. It’s touristy for a reason — this was one of the largest cities in the ancient world.
10. Mezcal crawl in Roma Norte — Start at Bósforo, move to Páramo, end at Limantour for cocktails. You’ll develop opinions about espadín vs tobalá.

Local Food & Drink

Mexico City is arguably the best food city in the Americas. The taco scene alone could occupy a full trip.

• Tacos al pastor — Spit-roasted pork with pineapple. The iconic CDMX taco. El Huequito in Centro has been doing it since 1959. 15-25 MXN per taco ($0.80-$1.40).
• Tacos de suadero & cabeza — Crispy beef brisket and head meat. Sounds rough, tastes incredible. Los Cocuyos on Calle Bolívar, open evenings only.
• Tacos de canasta — “Basket tacos” — steamed, cheap, soft, perfect. Look for guys with blue baskets on bikes. 8-12 MXN each.
• Tlacoyos — Thick blue-corn masa patties stuffed with beans or chicharrón. Find them at any tianguis (street market).
• Quesadillas — At markets, these come with or without cheese (yes, really — “con queso o sin queso?” is a real question). Huitlacoche (corn fungus) filling is a must-try.
• Contramar — The most famous lunch in CDMX. Tuna tostadas and the red-and-green grilled fish. No reservations, expect a wait. ~400-600 MXN/person.
• Pujol — Enrique Olvera’s flagship. Consistently top-50 in the world. The mole madre (two moles, one aged 2000+ days) is legendary. Tasting menu ~$150 USD. Book far ahead.
• Café de Tacuba — Open since 1912 in Centro. Beautiful tiled interior. Enchiladas and hot chocolate. A living time capsule.
• Mezcal — This is mezcal country. Skip tequila. At a good mezcalería you’ll pay 80-150 MXN for a proper pour. Sip, don’t shoot.
• Pulque — Fermented agave sap, pre-Hispanic, slightly viscous. An acquired taste. Try curado (flavored) first. Las Duelistas in Centro is the spot.
• Markets — Mercado Roma is the upscale food hall. For the real deal, hit Mercado de la Merced — huge, chaotic, incredible.

Budget Tips

• Daily budget: $30-50 USD is comfortable (eating street food, using metro, hostels). $70-100 for mid-range (nice Airbnb, sit-down restaurants). $150+ for luxury.
• Street tacos — 15-30 MXN each (~$1-1.50). You can eat extremely well for $5-8/meal.
• Metro — 5 MXN per ride (~$0.28 USD). One of the cheapest in the world.
• Free museums on Sundays — Most national museums (including Antropología) are free for Mexican residents and foreigners on Sundays. They’re also packed.
• OXXO & tiendas — Convenience stores for cheap water, snacks, phone credit.
• Tipping — 10-15% at restaurants. Small bills (10-20 MXN) for street vendors, parking attendants, bag packers at grocery stores.
• Negotiate at markets — Politely. Start at 60-70% of asking price for handicrafts.
• Airbnb vs hotels — Airbnbs in Roma/Condesa run $30-60/night for a nice private room. Hotels are pricier for equivalent quality.

Getting Around

• Metro — Fast, cheap (5 MXN), extensive. Avoid Line 1 and 3 during rush hour unless you want to become intimate with strangers. Pantitlán station is purgatory. Download the Metro CDMX map.
• Metrobús — Bus rapid transit on dedicated lanes. Line 1 runs down Insurgentes, the main north-south artery. Same card as the metro.
• Uber/DiDi — Very cheap. A 20-minute ride is usually 60-120 MXN ($3-7). Locals use both. Always check the plates match.
• Walking — Roma, Condesa, and Polanco are extremely walkable. Centro is walkable but watch for uneven sidewalks.
• Ecobici — Bike-share system. Great for Roma/Condesa/Polanco flat areas. Get a day pass. Watch for aggressive drivers.
• Don’t drive — Traffic is apocalyptic. Seriously. Uber is your friend.
• Tip: Get a rechargeable Tarjeta de Movilidad Integrada at any metro station for metro + metrobús.

Neighborhoods

• Roma Norte — The darling of CDMX. Tree-lined streets, mezcalerías, restaurants, galleries. This is where most visitors base themselves, and for good reason. Can feel gentrified but the quality of life is undeniable.
• Condesa — Roma’s slightly posher, leafier neighbor. Art-deco architecture, Parque México, excellent brunch spots. Great for families and people who want Roma vibes with less grit.
• Centro Histórico — Ancient, grand, chaotic. The Zócalo, the cathedral, street vendors everywhere. Stay here for immersion. Not walkable late at night in all areas — stick to well-lit streets.
• Coyoacán — Southern neighborhood with a village feel. Frida Kahlo museum, cobblestone plazas, weekend markets. Worth a full day.
• Polanco — The wealthy neighborhood. Luxury shopping on Presidente Masaryk, world-class restaurants (Pujol is here), excellent museums (Soumaya, Jumex). Safe, clean, expensive.
• Juárez — Between Roma and Centro. Emerging food and nightlife scene. Slightly grittier, more local. Mercado San Juan is here — the “gourmet” market where chefs shop.
• San Rafael — North of Roma. Art-deco theaters, real neighborhood vibes, almost no tourists. The next Roma, people keep saying.
• Santa María la Ribera — Another up-and-comer. The Kiosco Morisco is stunning. Authentic, affordable, a bit rough around the edges.

Packing Tips

• Layers — Mornings and evenings are cool (12-16°C / 55-60°F), afternoons are warm (22-28°C / 72-82°F). A light jacket is essential.
• Rain gear — If visiting June–September, expect afternoon downpours. They’re intense but brief. A compact umbrella is mandatory.
• Comfortable walking shoes — Sidewalks are uneven. Cobblestones in Coyoacán will destroy your ankles in sandals.
• Sunscreen & hat — The altitude means UV is stronger than you expect. You will burn.
• Cash — Many street vendors, markets, and small restaurants are cash-only. ATMs (Banorte, HSBC) are widespread. Withdraw at bank ATMs, not standalone ones.
• Anti-pollution mask — Optional, but air quality can be rough on bad days (usually February–May). Check the IMECA index.
• Cross-body bag — Pickpocketing happens in crowded areas (metro, Centro). Don’t flash your phone around.

Safety & Scams

• Overall: CDMX is safer than its reputation suggests, especially in tourist areas. Use the same street smarts you’d use in any big city.
• Taxi scam — Never hail a random street taxi. Use Uber, DiDi, or official sitio taxis (from designated stands). Unlicensed taxis are the #1 safety risk.
• ATM skimming — Use ATMs inside banks during business hours. Cover the keypad.
• Earthquake preparedness — CDMX is seismically active. Note exit routes in your building. If one hits, follow local guidance (go to open spaces, listen for the seismic alarm).
• Altitude sickness — At 2,240m (7,350 ft), you may feel dizzy, short of breath, or headachy for 1-2 days. Hydrate aggressively. Go easy on alcohol.
• Areas to be cautious: Tepito (don’t go), Doctores (sketchy at night), parts of Iztapalapa. Stick to Roma/Condesa/Polanco/Centro (main streets)/Coyoacán and you’re fine.
• Emergency: 911 works. Tourist police (in blue vests) are generally helpful in Centro and Polanco.
• Water: Don’t drink tap water. Bottled or filtered only. Ice at restaurants is usually filtered (purified) — ask if unsure.

Key Phrases

• Buenos días / Buenas tardes / Buenas noches — Good morning / afternoon / evening. Mexicans are formal with greetings. Use them.
• ¿Cuánto cuesta? (KWAN-toh KWES-tah) — How much does it cost?
• La cuenta, por favor (lah KWEN-tah por fah-VOR) — The check, please.
• ¿Dónde está…? (DON-deh es-TAH) — Where is…?
• Con todo (kon TOH-doh) — With everything (for tacos — this is the move).
• Sin picante (seen pee-KAHN-teh) — Without spice (if you need it, no judgment).
• ¿Me regala…? (meh reh-GAH-lah) — Can I have…? (softer than “quiero,” preferred in CDMX)
• Provecho (proh-VEH-choh) — Bon appétit. People say this to strangers eating nearby. Say it back.
• Chido (CHEE-doh) — Cool / awesome (CDMX slang).
• Neta? (NEH-tah) — Really? / For real? (slang, casual).
• Güey (WAY) — Dude. You’ll hear it constantly.
• Salud (sah-LOOD) — Cheers (when drinking).
• Disculpe (dees-KOOL-peh) — Excuse me (to get attention).
• No, gracias — No, thank you (for persistent vendors).

Essential Apps

• Uber / DiDi — Rideshare. DiDi is often cheaper.
• Google Maps — Works well for transit directions including metro.
• Rappi — Food delivery, groceries, everything delivery. The CDMX super-app.
• Metro CDMX — Official metro map and status.
• AIRE CDMX — Air quality monitoring.
• XE Currency — For quick MXN/USD conversions.
• WhatsApp — Everyone in Mexico uses WhatsApp. Restaurants take reservations on it. Get it.
• Google Translate — Offline Spanish pack. Camera mode works on menus.

Festivals & Events

• Día de los Muertos (Nov 1-2) — The big one. Massive altars on the Zócalo, face painting, cemetery visits (Mixquic is famous), parades. Book accommodation months ahead.
• Guelaguetza (late July) — Oaxacan cultural festival with presence in CDMX. Traditional dance, food, textiles.
• Semana Santa (March/April) — Holy Week. The city empties as locals leave. Great time to visit — fewer crowds, some closures.
• Independence Day (Sept 15-16) — The Grito at the Zócalo on the night of the 15th. Massive celebration. Fireworks, music, crowds.
• Feria de la Flor Más Bella del Ejido (April) — Flower festival in Xochimilco. Ancient tradition, beautifully chaotic.
• FICM / Morelia Film Festival (October) — Not in CDMX but close. Mexico’s best film festival.
• Zona MACO (February) — Latin America’s biggest art fair. Galleries, parties, cultural events across the city.

Day Trips

• Teotihuacán — 1 hour northeast. Massive pre-Aztec pyramids. Go at opening (8am) to beat crowds and heat. Skip the “guides” at the entrance. 80 MXN entry. Take a bus from Terminal del Norte or book a tour.
• Puebla — 2 hours southeast by bus (ADO). Gorgeous colonial city, mole poblano homeland, incredible Talavera pottery. The cathedral and Biblioteca Palafoxiana are extraordinary. Could be an overnight.
• Valle de Bravo — 2.5 hours west. Lake town in the mountains. Paragliding, boating, cobblestone streets. Where wealthy Chilangos weekend.
• Taxco — 3 hours south. Silver mining town clinging to a hillside. Stunning architecture, silver jewelry shopping, dramatic landscape.
• Cuernavaca — 1.5 hours south. “City of eternal spring.” Cortés’s palace, beautiful gardens. Combine with Taxco for a long day.

Specific Recommendations

Restaurants

• Pujol (Polanco) — World-class tasting menu. ~$150 USD. Book 1-2 months ahead.
• Contramar (Roma) — The tuna tostadas and grilled fish. ~$30-40 USD/person. Lunch only, no reservations.
• El Huequito (Centro) — Tacos al pastor since 1959. ~$3-5 for a meal.
• Café de Tacuba (Centro) — Historic, gorgeous, traditional Mexican food. ~$15-20/person.
• Taquería Orinoco (Roma) — Northern-style tacos, pirata and gringa are the move. ~$5-8/meal.

Bars

• Limantour (Roma) — Consistently on World’s 50 Best Bars. Cocktails ~120-180 MXN.
• Bósforo (Centro) — Tiny, loud, cheap mezcal. Perfect dive.
• Salón Corona (Centro) — No-frills cantina. Cold beer, free snacks with your drinks. Old-school CDMX.

Cafés

• Café Avellaneda (Coyoacán) — Excellent single-origin Mexican coffee. Tiny, worth the wait.
• Chiquitito Café (Condesa) — Beloved neighborhood spot. Flat whites, pastries, chill vibes.
• Almanegra Café (Roma) — Specialty coffee roasters. Serious about beans.

Hotels

• Budget: Casa Pepe (Roma, ~$25-40/night) — Clean hostel with private rooms. Great location.
• Mid-range: Hotel Condesa DF (Condesa, ~$150-200/night) — Rooftop bar, gorgeous design, perfect location on Avenida Veracruz.
• Luxury: Four Seasons CDMX (Reforma/Juárez, ~$400+/night) — Hacienda-style courtyard, impeccable service, central location.

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